I write this article from the pristine safety of a California university library where I have taken refuge to sort out our new lives following our self-imposed evacuation from Nicaragua in the first week of July. My son, Aiden and I left Granada with the intention of waiting out from afar the violent conflict resulting from the recent political protests. We optimistically hoped that the remaining summer months would produce a resolution in favor of the blue and whites, a return to security in the streets, and an overall better Nicaragua.
As we reach the end of the month, a Nicaraguan human rights group (ANPDH) reports the growing number of deaths due to the Orteguista state-sponsored civil repression at 448 people. This is devastating news and points to the probability of a protracted conflict without clear victories or endings. I decided that we cannot wager on a spontaneous change in the political dynamic to determine our course this year. We will stay in California and begin again figuring out out each new life step as we go on the fly.
Frankly, when we arrived to California, we were exhausted both physically and emotionally. Living through a developing crisis characterized by violence and the ever looming threat of violence is like being the proverbial frog that delays leaping from heating water that he doesn’t notice is set on course towards a rolling boil. My mind had played tricks on me for months, gravitating towards indications that that all would be well and that we had ample time to react. Strangely, I tended to ignore most signals to the contrary (a sure case of ‘normalcy bias’ that I wouldn’t have predicted for myself).
My son was the opposite. He asked me constantly for details about what was happening around us and the daily death count due to the unrest. He wanted to know if and when we were leaving and told me in no uncertain terms that we were not safe. In the end, I could not deny that he was right. Whether we were directly in harms way through violence on the street, or potentially limited access to basic resources, or that we might have our car and cellphones searched for political material at random there were threats everywhere to our sense of well-being, security, and happiness.Continue reading “Every day I had said one more day, until I couldn’t justify it anymore. It was time to go.”→
Information. These days in Nicaragua, it seems like there is either too much information coming at us or not enough of it. Either quantity can make it difficult to make confident family decisions going forward.
As each eventful day and night unfolds here in Nicaragua, social media provides a stream of news, texts, and imagery updating the Nicaraguan revolution in real time. Sometimes that influx of information validates our local experience with civil unrest here on the ground. At other times the news fails to capture the lulls, the normalcy, and the positive social interaction that makes it all feel manageable.
I have been caught quite off guard this month here in Granada. Overnight, a spark has ignited a grassroots, political movement in the streets of Nicaragua that grows more powerful every day. This widespread campaign now gives voice to not only issues of political discontent, but also to the outrage over the violent, political repression that was orchestrated by the State to attempt to quiet and squash it.
I have wanted to write a post for a few weeks now about what is happening in Nicaragua, but it wasn’t clear to me whatexactly was occurring and where it was all heading. For perhaps a decade, Nicaragua’s opposition in any form has been largely subdued and hushed by fear. It was wondered by all of us watching these events if demonstrators would continue to protest daily, or perhaps wait for the national elections in three years to quietly change their political leadership at the ballot box.
It now seems to me that Nicaragua has reached a tipping point in this movement that will only cease when the presidential couple is forced to leave office. Meaning, this is the real deal. I believe that this is full on democratic activism that will see a popular revolution through until its climatic moment when the ‘powers that were’ are compelled to step down by civil pressure, if not by force.
I could not be happier for Nicaragua. For years, Nicaragua has politically become less free and just, which in its own way detracts from the natural beauty of its land and unique way of life. Although the manifestations have created an immediate stagnation in the economy and in the tourism industry, it seems from talking with locals that many are ready to hunker down to take a hit for the team. They now have a sense of their own growing numbers and personal power as a group and feel that they can utilize this momentum to achieve their objectives.
What does this mean for travelers planning a trip to Nicaragua?
This post is for all those moms and dads out there that have Granada, Nicaragua on their radar for their dream immersion experience living abroad with family. You may have already noticed how popular Granada has become with families with kids from all over Europe, Australia, and North America. Granada has it all: the bilingual international schools, the beautiful housing, the restaurants and supermarkets, the safest streets in Central America and the most gorgeous natural scenery at its doorstep.
But did you know that Granada is exploding with amazing opportunities to get fit?Yep. You might not see this written about in other blogs but the gym craze is on here in Granada and you are going to want to jump in, too. This is your moment! Think about it. Back home, I know that your family is on the go and you’ve got all kinds of stuff you are heading out to every day. It’s not even just work and all the scheduled activities but you are also planning to spend some time abroad and that takes a lot of effort to organize. I remember all of it!
But fast forward to when you get here (you’re almost there, you’re almost there) and you are going to have more free time to really invest in yourself and your well-being than you have had in a long time. Why not make a commitment to yourself to finally make a fresh new start in a new place by planning to exercise regularly? If not now in paradise with life moving at calmer, healthier pace, then when?
Nicaragua is a tropical paradise and I adore it year round, but summer months are more challenging for everyone when temperatures shoot up. It’s strange to think that here in Granada, as we now enjoy temperatures between 80 and 90 °F, we are about to enter our region’s hottest summer months in March and April when we are directly positioned closest to the sun.
If you are heading to Central America during those months you are going to want to remember that a tropical summer requires some practical strategies to make it more pleasant and fun, particularly for kids. Hot is hot no matter where you are, but travelling out of a harsh winter in North America or Europe to Granada can make the temperatures seem particularly extreme when they spike above 95 °F, 35 °C.
If you figure out your strategies before you get here and build them into your stay, you won’t be caught off guard if your kids remind you for the 100th time: I’m, hoooot.
What is it like to live in Granada, Nicaragua? I am pretty confident that if you are interested in that answer or are even reading this blog, you are currently entertaining a case of persistent wanderlust that has you scoping out family-friendly venues abroad for your itchy, adventurous feet.
I am very familiar with that unrelenting desire and challenge to find the right exotic destination to satisfy the impulse for change. But as you probably know as a mom or dad planning a major trek abroad with kids, there is a whole other layer of parental responsibility to your voyagingdeep into the unknown that will have to be addressed, as well.
(And yet, I messed up).
Admittedly,I have made some bad calls in that regard. I started this journey in an area of Northern Nicaragua that wasn’t right for my son, Aiden or me. It was too different for a long-term stay and we excessively struggled with our surroundings. We stayed much too long and although we both can definitely say that yes, we can survive a hardship post (for years!), it’s not the bragging rights that a twelve-year-old yearns to exercise among his peers or across his resume (not applying for a foreign service position, yet).
It has taken me some time to win back his trust in that regard. Aiden had left everything behind in Charlotte, North Carolina: his childhood home, neighborhood, and friends that he had known since he was two years old. Kids don’t really have a choice in these big moves, they come along with parents who are questing, and they are trusting that we are going to make the right choices. And sometimes, although we mean well, we make mistakes. We blow it. And then the next choice, well, it had better be good because getting it wrong the second time around could be even worse, right?
Oh, gosh. It might be just another fruitless quest, but I want to try Granada.
It’s no secret that I love living in Granada, Nicaragua. We are surrounded by beautiful, tropical nature and there are so many fun and easy excursions to do with kids with Granada as your home base. Aiden and I just had an amazing weekend adventure a few hours south at La Flor Beach Wildlife Refuge where kids can get up close and personal with wild turtles in their natural habitat and at nearby Playa El Coco which is a beautiful beach perfect for families. This trip was a breeze and I wholeheartedly recommend that you add these two popular family destinations to your Nicaragua trip planner because your kids are going to raveabout the experience.
Laying out the trip
The La Flor Wildlife Refuge (Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor), where you can interact with wild turtles in their natural habitat, is located at Playa La Flor. You could camp at the refuge overnight, but more formal accommodations can be found right on the beachat nearby Playa el Coco which is 2 km away (or Playa Hermosa, Playa Escameca, Playa El Yanke, etc). If you are wondering if you could also stay at mega-popular, party beach town San Juan del Sur, yes, you could, but just know that it is 30 km each way on a partially dirt road (while probably driving in the dark for best turtle hours). If you are travelling with kids like we were, you might prefer the nearness and the totally laid back, family-friendly atmosphere of the local beaches next to the refuge.
One of the great perks of living in Granada, Nicaragua is being able to effortlessly head out to a beautiful, family beach for the day (or more luxuriously for the entire weekend) without going out of your way to do so. When volcanoes and their swimming holes just won’t do and you need fresh seafood, beachcombing and surfable waves, in a few hours drive Granadinos can be entertaining the family all day long in the warm, healing waves of the Pacific Ocean.
Most travelers will want to head to San Juan del Sur at least once to see why it is always at the top of the tourist billboard. San Juan is known for its brilliant, blue bay with fantastic eclectic restaurants, all manner of hotels and spectacular beach home rentals. I also have loved San Juan de Sur for those very same reasons through the years, but there is a lot more out there to see along the Pacific coast that can provide a more intimate, Nicaraguan immersion experience for families in the water.
When I first arrived to Granada, I would take early exploring walks through my neighborhood before the summer heat would begin to hover heavily over the day’s movements. On one such morning, I fell into one of those easy spontaneous exchanges, that Nicaraguans so freely initiate throughout their day, with an older man (in his third age, as they kindly say here) sitting on his porch. He saw me admiring his pretty street and eagerly wanted to know what I thought of his city. I did’t have to embellish the truth.
Granada is surely the most beautiful city in Nicaragua, I said.
He shook his head and smiled at me almost paternally. No, he calmly corrected me. Granada is the most beautiful city in Central America.